‘I Rode On A Motorcycle Once’

We are lunching at Josephina, right across from Lincoln Center, and for some reason I am babbling excitedly to my grandmother about the motorcycle I’d bought recently. I hadn’t even told my parents, and as I spoke I worried a bit belatedly that she might say something to them. But her warm attention told me I did not need to be concerned. She leaned into the table. “You know,” she said, glancing quickly at the people next to us, “I rode on a motorcycle once!”

I Wasn’t Interested

I’ll admit straight up, I wasn’t that interested in spending time with my Hungarian grandmother. I was in my late twenties. When I came into New York City occasionally from a job in central Connecticut, I wanted to see friends and have fun, not perform duties. My father noodged me to phone her. I tried to ignore him. Then one particularly quiet evening, I picked up the phone and dialed. Just one call, I told myself, there won’t be anything more to it.

Over the next few years, we went to museums, movies, the opera, always with lunch just before or after. Initially, she was kind of a stranger, soon she became interesting, then she was my friend. I shared troubles and life decisions. She told me about her classes and trips. I learned about her younger days and family stories I never knew.

One time we lunched before we went to see the film, The Piano. I don’t necessarily recommend taking your grandmother to see The Piano, by the way. Not unless she is likely to fall asleep at the racier parts. Fortunately, my grandmother dozed through most of them. In any case, as she sat down at the table she pulled out a notebook. “I have a class at the Hunter College, it is about Chinese history, so interesting,” and she began to tell me about Emperor Qin, and how when he died he was buried with 8,000 terra-cotta soldiers. “He wanted to take an army with him to conquer heaven!” She swayed side to side as she slapped her cheek in disbelief. “Jaj, istenem!” (That would translate to something along the lines of “Oh my goodness!”) I resisted her boundless enthusiasm at first, but gradually, I surrendered to her sense of wonder.

A Question I Hadn’t Known I’d Longed To Ask

Another time we found ourselves sitting on a bench in Central Park, after a visit to MoMA. A film about World War II partisans brought the subject of the war to our conversation for the first time. And finally, I put long-hidden puzzle pieces together, and asked her a question I hadn’t known I’d longed to ask until that moment.

“How many people did you know were lost in the camps?” I said, referring to the Nazi death camps to which Hungarian Jews were sent late in World War II.
She was quiet for a while. My heart pounded.
“About sixty friends and family,” she said, staring straight ahead.
“How many were family?”
“Maybe thirty,” she said, adding, “They lived in the countryside,” in a tone that suggested this explained things.
“Who were they? Can you tell me about any of them?” I asked, filling with anguish.
She did not answer. Her face was pale, her eyes shifting, unfocused.
“My cousins Simon and István, that is Steven. He was a decorated officer in the army in World War I,” she said, her face turning hard and gray. “They didn’t care. The Nazis came and they took him away. Him and his wife and their children. And his mother, too.”

On the soccer field, a boy kicked a ball just past the opposing goalie’s outstretched arms and everyone on both sides shrieked. My mind was on fire. How could she say “sixty friends and family” so matter-of-factly? And to have said nothing to me until now? I started to think of more questions, but she spoke first.

“I have not been to Central Park in nearly thirty years,” she said. “Thank you, dear Peter.” She tapped me on the thigh as she smiled. “I will tell all my girlfriends that I have been to the Central Park.” She gathered her things and stood up. “They will never believe it.”

No Asking Without Relating

Thinking back on the moments with my grandmother when we discussed the past, I think not so much of the importance of asking about it, though asking is important. Our elder relatives have much to tell us if we will only do so. What they tell often fills in blank spaces and opens new vistas on our own story, too. But there is no asking, at least no good asking, without relating. The care we show for the elders in our family works like a catalyst on the facts they tell us, on the feelings we share, and infuses what we learn, what we feel, into our sense of self. Identity is a loaded word these days, but if we go to its essence, a well-developed identity is central to living a purposeful and meaningful life. And essential aspects of identity come from those in our family who came before us.

So, if you do one thing after reading this, I hope it will be to engage intentionally with someone a generation or more older than you in your family. Get together with them. Share experiences. Ask them about their lives. Do a little homework on the times and places in which they lived, loved, and worked. Everyone has stories. They do not need to be stories about fighting in Vietnam or surviving the Holocaust. Every story has richness. Every story matters. Every story is a piece of your own story.

After the asking, and maybe because of it, friendship deepens. The giving begins to outweigh the receiving, there is the warmth of human connection, and growth within.

Buy the book, Finding Maria (Bloomingdale Press – 2nd edition November 25, 2019), on Amazon

The Odds Were Against This Day

“A Stirring Song”

Our daughter stood on the bimah facing the congregation, cradling a Torah nearly half her size. She chanted the Shema, loud and strong, filling the airy synagogue. Her song stirred reflections on assimilation and annihilation, the twin threats to Judaism of the long 20th century, and on the narrow and winding path my family traveled through these threats to this moment. The odds were decidedly against this day…
See full piece in The Forward

Beauty & Tragedy

Avoided At All Costs

I could not understand my grandmother’s comfort with tragedy – not at the start anyway. “Life in Hungary is terrible. Terrible!” she said, recounting a recent trip to Hungary during one of our weekend lunches in the mid-1990s. “Everything is so expensive now. There are so many political parties, like before the war. Some of them are anti-Semitic.” I was in my early thirties, and, to me, tragedy, or even the risk of tragedy, was still to be avoided at all costs, perhaps even the cost of happiness.

As much as she seemed to relish terrible circumstances, she also had a passion for beauty. One afternoon, in a large gallery of the Metropolitan Museum, we sat for a long time in front of a fresco from a wall of a temple in North China from the 1300s. We talked about the piece as I referred to an information card to explain the various Buddhist figures. “And who are those people there?” she asked, gesturing toward the top of the wall. “Jaj!” she said in response to my answer, slapping one of her cheeks. She searched the fresco as if in a trance, her face calm but for the slightly upturned corner of her mouth. “It is possible always to discover new things,” she said. “Wonderful.”

I had not wanted to spend time with her, resisted playing the dutiful grandson. But after my father’s repeated noodging – “Don’t you get down to New York ever?” he would ask – I phoned her to invite her to lunch. Just one call, I thought at the time, there won’t be anything more to it. But there was. Over several years of these afternoon visits we became friends – not as child and grandparent, but adults.

Woven Into the Fabric of Her Life

There were stories about her special cousins, Simon and István. Simon was her favorite. She told me about the time he had offered her a ride in his sidecar. Just before the ride ended, he took a curve a bit too fast and the motorcycle rolled over multiple times. “I was in bed for weeks!” she exclaimed. “Jaj, it was terrible!” But as she said this, her shoulders shook with laughter and her face turned red with overflowing joy. A terrible accident, but a beautiful moment.

She told me about her engagement and early years with her first husband (my grandfather), the great love of her life. He was a factory manager, she an administrative assistant. They dated. And then one afternoon as they strolled along the Fisherman’s Walk in the Buda hills overlooking Pest, he told her he was being transferred to Brussels. They stopped at the Ruszwurm, one of the city’s great coffee houses. There, he asked her to marry him. Brussels was a dream. “On weekends we went to Paris, to Amsterdam, to Germany. It was a year I will never forget. Never,” she said, half in a dream.

The same afternoon that she recalled this story, as we strolled down Central Park West after a film, she told me about his death. “The doctor warned him to stop smoking, and he did. But it was too late. Two months later a cousin stopped by the store, a good customer, and they were telling jokes to each other. In the middle of a sentence he fainted. At the hospital, the doctor met me outside the room and told me it was a massive brain hemorrhage. There was nothing they could do.”

Another time, as we walked slowly down Park Avenue near the 92nd Street Y, I learned about poor Aunt Jolan, who lost a son in World War I and was left a vegetable at the end of her life. Half a block later she told me about how Simon and István, who looked like twins, had fooled a barber into thinking he had done such a poor job shaving István’s beard that it had grown right back. She laughed herself to tears as she finished.

There they were again, tragedy and beauty. They were woven into the fabric of her life. Almost unconsciously, something in the closeness to her repeated examples, something in her life force, a force that seemed fueled by both tragedy and beauty, affected me.

What Had Once Seemed Strange Became My Own

The visits with her coincided with a time of uncertainty about major aspects of my life: love and work. As I look back on it now, this uncertainty seems really to have been fear – fear of making wrong decisions, fear of pain and wasted life-time, fear of tragedy. During the time when she and I grew close, somehow I began to make sense of my fears, and eventually, almost without notice, a kind of fusion occurred. I accepted the necessity, the richness, of tragedy, the full energy of beauty, and how each reinforced the precious experience and meaning of the other. I took both tragedy and beauty into who I was. What had once seemed strange became my own. I was able to move on. Reflecting on this change, I see how it was more a beginning than an end, really, a kind of passage into adulthood.

She died not many years later. Still, every now and then, when I encounter something that has that savory blend of beauty and tragedy, with maybe just a bit of irony or humor mixed in, I can hear her shout, “Jaj! Terrible!” in between laughter-soaked breaths.

Buy the book, Finding Maria (Bloomingdale Press – 2nd edition November 25, 2019), on Amazon

March 19, 1944

“March 19, 1944. I never forget that day,” my grandmother told me. She spoke in that particular Hungarian accent, with its often-compressed phrases and odd-sounding emphasis on early syllables. “NEVerforget” began with an exclamation and a shake of the head.

Game up

On that date, the German army occupied its ally Hungary, at the invitation of Hungary’s leaders. On that date the game was up. Hungary had been divided between more rabid anti-Semites and a ruling class of noblemen whose anti-Semitism (particularly for countryside, lower-class Jews, as opposed to the wealthy Jewish landowners or industrialists they knew personally) was counterbalanced by a quaint if inconsistent sense of honor. Humiliated by the hated Trianon treaty after World War I, under which Hungary lost two-thirds of its territory, as World War II dawned, Hungary dreamed of regaining past glory (or at least lands). It allied itself with Germany, and doubled its territory with spoils from German victories as rewards for major anti-Jewish laws passed between 1938 and 1941.

Germany pressed for more, for deportation. Yet the Hungarians put off such action, offering up further discriminatory measures. Wrote Joseph Goebbels in his diary in the spring of 1943, “The Jewish question is being solved least satisfactorily by the Hungarians.” His point is illustrated by the fact that as Goebbels wrote my Jewish grandfather was still running his fabric store in Budapest. My grandfather died on April 9th of that year of natural causes. (A cousin had stopped by the store and to share a joke. My grandfather was smoking a cigarette and laughing at the joke when he was struck by a fatal brain hemorrhage.)

‘We have allied ourselves with scoundrels’

In late April 1943, Hungary’s leader, Admiral Miklos Horthy (“We used to have a navy!” my grandmother would declare proudly) met with Hitler and demurred again in the face of Hitler’s demand for the Jews. By early 1944 the Hungarians were looking for a way out and sent peace feelers to the western powers. Worried about the commitment of its ally and the security of Hungary’s oil reserves, angered by the peace feelers and Hungary’s relative inaction on the Jews, Hitler demanded, and Horthy agreed to, occupation by Germany.

Many Hungarian leaders felt as Pal Taleki, the prime minister who committed suicide in 1941 after the invasion of Yugoslavia. His suicide note read in part: “We have become breakers of our word…. I have allowed the nation’s honor to be lost. The Yugoslav nation are our friends…. But now, out of cowardice, we have allied ourselves with scoundrels.”

And yet, many, including ordinary Hungarian citizens, welcomed the occupation. “A day in Yugoslavia was more dangerous than a year in Hungary,” observed Edmund Veesenmayer, Hitler’s plenipotentiary in Hungary.

Swift destruction

March 19, 1944. Adolph Eichmann, Nazi engineer of the Holocaust, arrived in Hungary with just a dozen officers and 200 to 300 Sonderkommando, and set to work at the destruction of Hungarian Jewry with newly appointed Hungarian Interior Ministry deputy for administration László Endre. (Eichmann once said of Endre that he “wanted to eat Jews with paprika.”) The Hungarian national police force, the Gendarmerie, was placed at Eichmann’s disposal. Commented one history, “the overwhelming majority of local, district, and county officials, including the civil servants and law enforcement officers, collaborated fully, and many quite enthusiastically.”

This date found my father in a Jesuit boarding school in Kalocsa in southern Hungary, donning a uniform in the Papal colors each morning before chapel, only vaguely aware of his Jewish origins under the thick layer of identity formed by his Catholic upbringing. Upon his arrival there in the fall of 1943, he registered with the local police, as traditionally required, writing “Israelite” where the form asked for his parents’ religion. In late March of 1944, his uncle came to return him to Budapest, and to inform him that he would have to wear a Jewish star.

By March 19, 1944, three million Polish Jews, a million Jews in Soviet Ukraine, and hundreds of thousands of Jews in other countries had been murdered. In light of this stark context, it still shocks one to think that into the early spring of 1944 the Hungarian Jewish community of some 800,000 remained largely intact.

And yet, in a matter of weeks, the Jews of Hungary were concentrated in their villages, towns, and small cities, and on May 15th deportation began in force. Each day, trains carried off some 12,000 men, women, and children. By early July, some 450,000 Hungarian Jews had been sent to Auschwitz. (Anticipating their arrival, the Germans had spent the spring overhauling and expanding the crematoria, unloading ramps, and staffing there.) A sizeable proportion of all the Jews murdered at Auschwitz were killed in just a matter of weeks in the late spring of 1944.

Hungary had been emptied of its Jews, except for Budapest, which held the largest remaining intact community in Nazi-occupied Europe.

Character in the balance

My grandmother obtained false papers, and through cunning, fearlessness, and luck, managed to bring herself and her children through the horror and the hell of both Nazi and Hungarian Nazi terror, and the building-to-building battle the Soviets and Germans fought for Budapest in the winter of 1944-45.

Looking back on this history, it is impossible not to see March 19, 1944 as a fulcrum. Before this date, the fate of the Jewish people, the character of the Hungarian nation tipped toward one direction. Upon this date, it balanced decisively, tragically, toward another.

Sources:

The Politics of Genocide: The Holocaust in Hungary, Randolph L. Braham (condensed edition)
The Holocaust in Hungary: Forty Years Later, Randolph L. Braham and Bela Vago, eds.
Hungary at War, Cecil Eby

Buy the book, Finding Maria (Bloomingdale Press – 2nd edition November 25, 2019), on Amazon